There are lots of posts out there on how to load XBMC onto the Kindle Fire TV so I won’t repeat the whole thing here. XBMC Wiki has a good one that I basically followed. The steps are pretty simple (and explained in detail in the wiki).
Let’s start with the basics. The Fire TV is a heavily skinned (by Amazon) Android OS. How much you want to use the Kindle’s OS will determine exactly how you do things. You can completely hide the Kindle’s OS and only see XBMC if that’s what you want.
Steps are these:
1) You need to download the Android debugger called ADB. You don’t need to install it, you can run it from wherever you extract it to. ADB is used to load Android apps onto the Kindle. The Kindle does not have an Android App store such as Google Play or the like. So using ADB to load ADB is the way to get around this. You will run ADB on a PC on the same network as the Kindle
2) Download XBMC Android version (it will be an APK) to the PC you are going to run ADB on
3) Download Llama APK
4) Download the predefined llama config files from the Wiki link
5) Download AndFTP FTP to make transferring files to and from the Fire easier
6) Put the Fire into debug mode and note the IP address of the Fire as noted in the wiki
7) Use ADB to install XBMC/llama/AndFTP
8) Use ADB to push the llama config files onto the fire and load them into llama
Android apps installed can be found from the Fire main menu, settings, Applications. So not by any means convenient.
Llama is the key to making XBMC integration as much or as little as you want. One of the things you can do is to install what they call a sacrificial app. For Canada Hulu will do nicely since it doesn’t work here anyway. Then you can configure llama that anytime you start Hulu, start XBMC. Not perfect but it works.
Llama can also be configured that any time the Fire menu is running (called KFTV) start XBMC. This will totally hide the Fire stuff leaving XBMC. If you need to go back to the Fire for some reason then you simply go to programs, android apps, llama from within XBMC, use the options menu and kill llama. From there press home and you are back to the fire. You will need to go restart llama from Fire main menu, settings, Applications when your done with the fire menu.
All in all I have found XBMC runs quite well on the Fire TV. There are some issues with it crashing from time to time and with fast forward not working correctly.
For a while now I have looked for a decent program to log my heart rate during indoor activities and count calories. I’ve been unsuccessful. Then the thought dawned on me, I wonder what would happen if I turned off GPS in Android and ran my favorite programs like Endomondo or RunGPS? So I tried it. The apps complain because there is no GPS available but magically start up anyway! Yay.
Let’s start with RunGPS. So I sat on the couch for 35 mins sitting as still as I could trying to see if the calorie count would come close to the base calorie count I would expect. I put the app in weight lifting mode and started it. It showed a heart rate average of 58.6 which would give me my resting heart rate. Max 69 min 54 so reasonably still and showed 41 (+/-1 since RunGPS does not calculate partial calories) calories burned. So let’s do some math 60/35*41*24 would give you a baseline calorie count of 1687 calories. Using this baseline calorie calculator it says my number should be around 1781 calories so this seems to be pretty darn close!
Here’s the raw data
Next up I tried Endomondo. I put it in other mode and sat still for 30 mins. It showed a max heart rate of 79 and an average of 62 and a calorie count of 56, so that would extrapolate out to 2688 calories for the day. Seems a little high.
Here’s the raw data.
Similarly Mapmyfitness did not count calories when the GPS was disconnected with a heart rate monitor. So it totally ignores the heart rate monitor which agrees with a previous finding.
So in the end it turned out I had the functionality all along. I wish the apps would add an indoor mode so I didn’t have to fuss with the Android setting but at least it works!
I’ve been contemplating buying a Polar Heart rate monitor for a while now and it has always struck me as unnecessary. I already have a Bluetooth heart rate monitor surely there is an app for that? So I went on a quest. I went through about 250 apps in the play store that had something to do with heart rate monitor. What I was looking for was something that would allow me to record my heart rate over a period of time, give me some basic stats (max/average etc) and a calorie count.
First off you have to throw away the tons of apps that use the camera to get your heart rate. Useless. Then you have to look at what kind of heart rate monitor do you have. In the Android space there are three types of heart rate monitors. Original bluetooth (like my Zephyr HXM), Bluetooth smart (I don’t have any of these yet) and Ant+ (of course your phone has to support Ant+, which my S4 does). I have an Garmin Ant+ heart rate monitor so can use either. It seems that Google have not moved the heart rate monitor functions into the OS making each app have to deal with the different types or monitors. It also means only one app at a time can use the heart rate monitor. So you will need to find an app that supports your monitor. I interestingly stumbled on the fact two devices can talk to an Ant+ Heart rate monitor at the same time. I was able to get my S4 and my Garmin Foretrex 401 connected to my Garmin Ant+ heart rate monitor at the same time!
There are lots of exercise apps like Endomondo, RunGPS, Runtastic, MapmyRide, Samsung S.Health and many others but few of these offer a mode that allows you to workout indoors and focus on your heart rate. At the end of the day if your exercising this should be directly measurable by your heart rate IMHO.
Enter this app … RedShoes HR Pro. The app only works with the Zephyr HxM which is fine for me. At $3.31 this is on the higher side of the cost for apps. But if it means you don’t have to buy a Polar it’s well worth the cash.
First off I need to state the obvious. To simply exist your body consumes calories. This is called your baseline calories. Then any exercise then adds to this calorie count. A number of the exercise trackers like the Garmin VivoFit (that I recently reviewed), FitBit etc. all include this baseline calorie count IMHO to inflate the calorie count. So you need to find out what your baseline calorie count is. I found a good website to let you calculate your baseline calorie count. I can’t attest to it’s accuracy but it does seem to be in the right ball park.
To start off you have to tell the app a number of stats about you Max Heart Rate, Gender, Age, weight and two parameters I had no idea what to do with Lactate Threshold HR and VO2Max. The last two I had no idea what to do with so I ignored them. The calorie count was way off. I traded some emails with the author who was very responsive, and knowledgeable and helped me to understand I needed to set my VO2Max number. He had done some work comparing his app with other devices and they correlated well (in his testing) when the VO2Max was correctly set. He pointed to a web site that will allow you to estimate your VO2Max. Between this and the baseline web site above I was able to play around and get a calorie count that was far more reasonable/believable. I used the web site to scope my VCO2 max, first with a simple enter parameters and then with a walking test. I ended up being somewhere between 40-44.
The app can be configured to give you audible tones anytime you cross thresholds or zones. While handy these can also be annoying. But they can be turned off.
The app in addition to the heart rate attempts to get the battery of the monitor as well as a speed accelerometer in the heart rate monitor. On mine, an older one neither these worked well. The battery always said 100 right up until it went dead. But other apps have dome the same so I suspect this is an issue of hardware version of my very old Zephyr heart rate monitor.
So I took this app for a spin and put it against my fav app RunGPS. Now I’m not saying RunGPS’s calorie count or any of it’s data is flawless but it has been my trusted app for a very long time. I originally bought it on Windows mobile oh so many years ago. So here is what comes out of the app:
So you get some nice data such as Average heart rate, Current Heart rate, and calories. The graph shows how you went in and out of zones. If you choose to share your data such as on facebook this is what you will be sharing:
I think I would prefer a screen shot of the app showing all the stats as well as the graph. But that’s just me.
Ok so let’s compare the data: (original data is here) RunGPS Vs RedShoe
Calorie count: 1281 vs 1061.90
Avg HR 152 vs 143
Max HR 176 Vs 174
So the data jives reasonably well. The calorie count is off by the biggest amount at 17%. My VCO2 max may still not be right but frankly this is correlating reasonable well!
There is no pause/resume functionality but you can load your previous run by loading from /download/RedShoes where the raw data is stored if you’ve chosen to store data in the settings. Oddly the app does not tell you where the data is stored.
The app also has a neat feature that it blinks your LED (if turned on) every time it receives a heart beat!
My buddy Lance was looking for a cheap heart rate monitor and so I looked around and found this one on clearance. It is unique in that it goes on the arm rather than around the chest so I was thinking it might be more comfortable. So we both bought one. Now given you may just be a skimmer let me say up front DON’T BUY ONE OF THESE. Interestingly enough even Scosche say “**This Rhythm is currently our previous generation Heart rate monitor. We strongly recommend looking at our new and improved version, Rhythm+.” Odd.
The physicals of the device are fine. It comes with two different lengths of stretchy bands that can be removed and washed. It has a charging cradle that plugs into any USB. The clip that holds the device into the cradle is SUPER tight making it quite difficult to get back out. I do have to say the yellow color is positively ghastly IMHO. The unit itself is meant to be worn on the forearm but I found it worked fine on the bicep and for me was more comfortable there. It has three buttons. Two for music volume control and one for power on/off. There is an led on the unit. There is absolutely no documentation to tell you what the LED means. I put the device on and turned it on. Lots of silly flashing which I think means it is trying to find your pulse. Then once that settled down I could finally find the item on my bluetooth list. Bluetooth pairing of this device was finichy. Once paired it shows up as an odd device. The icon looks the same as my Sony Smartwatch? The HXM you see in the image is my Zephyr heart rate monitor.
So then I head over to the Playstore to grab their app and get greeted by a discontinue notice:
I load the app anyway get past a bunch of crashes and disconnects and run a hour long test and compare it to Endomondo connected to my Ant+ Chest strap heart rate monitor. Initially the heart rate the Scosche shows seems radically different than the one Endomondo shows. The Scosche does settle in and become similar to Endomondo but the Scosche also does not seem to react quickly to rapidly changing heart rates compared to Endomondo. Now I don’t know if this is the Rhytm app, the heart rate monitor itself, or even the nature of measuring the heart rate on the arm. The Rhythm app seems to give reasonable numbers compared to Endomondo. Here’s a one hour recording. The avg/calorie counts are all within reason. Max seems a little odd.
Then I decided to look at my favorite exercise apps RunGPS, Endomondo, Runtastic, MyTracks, none of them support the Scosche? So that would leave me to use their now discontinued app or buy yet another app such as iCardio that does support the heart rate monitor.
So all in all I am underwhelmed with this HRM. I like the comfort of it. But I am VERY unimpressed with how Scosche have basically abandoned a product that is still be sold in the market, albeit on clearance. I originally saw the next generation of this device reviewed on DC Rainmaker which is what even brought this company on my radar. The next generation device has both bluetooth low power mode as well as Ant+ at the same time. Meaning you could feed multiple devices and multiple apps with one heart rate monitor.
I last reviewed a dual core MyGica android media player. It was good but not good enough. It was slow to scan new content within XBMC, had occasional hiccups on playback etc. Well this time around my friend Johannes who also loaned me the MyGica offered me a chance to play with his Amazon Fire TV. They are not available in Canada right now (hopefully they will eventually be) but you can slip over the border and pick them up for $99.
Physically speaking this is a simple elegant design. Small enough to be not even noticed. On the front there is but one LED. Nothing on either sides. On the back are the HDMI, USB, barrel power plug, wired network plug can optical output. That’s it.
The device is sealed and completely silent. No fans at all. And on playback it really does not get warm at all.
My focus for this device (and this review) is XBMC. I took a brief look at the rest of the Fire TV and it has apps like Netflix, Hulu, Amazon etc I didn’t spend time with them. I did notice a lack of a web browser but I’m sure you could side load one.
Since I had this device for only a short time and did not set it up you will need to look elsewhere to see how to load XBMC etc. That was all done when I got it.
The device is fast to power up with a simple display on the screen while it loads. I attached a Logitech wireless Keyboard and it worked perfectly. The keyboard came in handy for setting up my lan shares that all content was played off of. I used the wired network but there is wireless built in as well.
The remote has a nice solid feel in the hand and is very responsive. And looks simple and elegant. The connection for the remote is bluetooth so you don’t need line of sight for the remote to work. Meaning you could completely and easily hide the FireTV. It has a good quality feel. Thus comes the first hiccup of this device. The small number of buttons on the remote. It has a voice search button that is useful only within the FireTV. I did play with it a bit and it worked quite well. Making the lack of a keyboard less painful. The circle gives you the four buttons and the center ok button you need to primarily navigate around XBMC. Back button also becomes quite needed moving around XBMC. The home button is just plain irritating within XBMC because it keeps taking you back to FireTV menus. And to get back takes a few clicks. So every time in the dark that you hit the wrong button (and the remote’s keys are not backlit) it takes a bit to get back where you last left off before you stupidly pressed the wrong key. The menu key allows easy access to delete content once watched (once enabled within XBMC) as well as finding out movie information, or episode information. And the last three forward, back play/pause. That’s it. What is sadly missing is volume controls. To me this is a HUGE over sight. It means you pretty much have to have two remotes. One for your TV/Audio receiver and the FireTVs. And since the remote is Bluetooth (and no IR) you won’t be remapping a Logitech Harmony to work with the FireTV. Amazon have locked down bluetooth to only there own remotes and game controllers so this isn`t an option either. USB remotes might work if you can find one that the fire support.
Navigating with this remote (qualms aside) is smooth and painless within XBMC. The quad core processor in this puppy really shine through. I was shocked how smooth it was.
Initial scan of my 1TB movie collection took about half an hour but I interrupted it and it restarted so in reality less than that. On my core i5 that takes about 12 mins, and took over 2 hours on the MyGica. So the quad core process really does make a BIG difference (the MyGica as you may recall is a dual core).
Initial Scan of my 252GB of tv shows took about 5 mins. That takes 2.5 mins on my Core i5 and about 5 mins on the MyGica.
Cleaning of the database was a little slow as well but all in all this is acceptable to me. You rarely do a full rescan.
The FireTV outputs to both HDMI and optical all the time making it easy to switch between possible audio outputs.
The power adapter is reasonably small and connects to the fire with a round power cord. The adapter says 16W on it and in the fine print it says it is 6.25V/2.5A. For reference the MyGica was 18W and my Core I5 sucks back about 65 watts. So this device is quite low power and you can see why it does not need a fan to keep it cool!
Movie playback was very good on XBMC 13. I could see nothing to complain about. No hiccups, audio was also perfect. This is a device I could live with for sure.
Once setup there was absolutely no need for a keyboard or mouse within XBMC.
I tried plugging in a Windows media center remote, my personal fav, and sadly it was completely ignored.
Power management of the FireTV itself worked fine, coming in and out of standby quickly, but for some reason my HDMI monitor did not go into low power mode. It just stayed on. Perhaps there might have been a setting to fix that. I ran out of time. The way XBMC had been loaded every time the FireTV came out of low power I manually had to restart XBMC which was clumsy. Oddly there is no power switch on the FireTV, no power button on the remote or any menu item to power off or put the FireTV into standby. Odd. But given the low amount of power it consumes not the end of the day.
Under the covers FireTV is Android. And this device, hands down is the best Android XBMC experience I have seen. With some work to better integrate XBMC and if you could remap that silly home button I could very happily live on this media player and retire my PC as a playback device. All in all for the price this is a VERY impressive device.
My colleague here at work tells me I have an addiction. I’m addicted to gadgets, and it’s true. Hi my name is John and I am Gadgeholic :) Perhaps I need to start a GA (Gadgeholics Anonymous) group to help deal with my addiction. The problem is rehab is for quitters, and I ain’t no quitter :) I know I shouldn’t make fun of addictions :( Moving on …
Back in 2012 I played with the Sony MN2 smart watch. It was an abysmal failure IMHO. It was so bad it could not tell time if it lost contact with the phone. It couldn’t last a day. And looked like a cheap piece of plastic. I hated it so much I returned it to the Sony store from whence it had come … Thank goodness for return policies (and the forethought I had to check the return policy before buying it).
Fast forward to now (actually it was announced Jun 2013) and we have the latest generation of it. Sony has made a number of updates to the firmware to address some early concerns about the SW2. Before jumping in I read a number of reviews about this one and it level set my expectations.
From a competition point of view I like the looks of the new Samsung Galaxy Neo, a huge step forward from the first gen but Samsung totally redesigned the Gear 2 such that any app written for the Gear 1 needs to be rewritten for the Gear 2. So the number of apps is low. It’s also more expensive. And the heart rate monitor built into it is useless (you need to be standing still for it to work). It’s also less customizable. Charging requires a docking cable. So all in all I decided against this one.
I like the Pebble but it looks like crap unless you buy the Pebble steel which is a ton of cash. It’s also more focussed on notifications, which for me a is a secondary purpose (for my use).
I found this one website with a list of a number of smart watches and it allows you to compare them for features!
And so I bought the Sony. I have to say, I had a hard time not dismissing this one after the horrible taste the MN2 left in my mouth. Brand recognition and loyalty is difficult to earn and so easily to loose. I remember when Sony was considered something I personally sought after. After a number of bad Sony products the brand for me is in the toilet. But in the end I decided to try it.
Physically the device is a bit on the large side. I have a small wrist and while it fits it is large enough to cause issues with dress shirt sleeves. It looks pretty good IMHO. It comes with a rubber wrist band that is not all that bad looking either. And Sony made a great decision to use a standard 24mm watch band so you can switch it up with anything you want. There is only one button on the side of the watch and that is used to brighten the screen, and power it on and off. On the front of the watch are three soft buttons, home, back and options kinda like Android. These are not backlit for some bizarre reason so hard to find in the dark. Dumb. And there’s no vibrate when pushed either. The options key is inconsistently used even within Sony apps, so is largely irrelevant although from time to time it does something. On the last side of the watch is a micro USB port for charging the watch. A positively brilliant choice and I applaud Sony for this choice. They include a pigtail USB cable that you can plug into your computer or buy a USB charger. So all in all fantastic. No need to carry around some custom cable or docking station to charge it!
From the first Sony watch I was familiar with the setup process and how the apps make their way to the watch. You load two apps on your phone Smart Connect and SmartWatch 2 from the PlayStore onto any android device that meets the specs (check to be sure yours is new enough). They use bluetooth to connect (not Bluetooth 4 or Smart) so it’s pretty compatible with most devices. You can use NFC to link them up or simply pair it like you would any other Bluetooth device. Once that’s done your Watch is initially setup. I am shocked how good connect/disconnect works. I have come to expect hokey results out of bluetooth connections. Not this one, they got it almost perfect. I had a few times where the watch would not connect to the phone. I had to power off the watch. I had once where I had to totally unpair and repair the watch.
First and foremost I want this thing to be a watch. Sony got the clock right. From the device even without the Bluetooth connected (once setup) you can set an alarm, change the date and time, use it as a count down or count up timer, change the watch face all with out the phone.
Also on the device out of the box is a calculator as well as an understanding of Endomondo and Runtastic fitness apps. These apps like all apps run primarily on the phone and use the phone’s sensors and relay data back to the app on the watch. When the app on the watch first starts or when it is brought back up or after the clock has timed out the watch app connects to the phone app and displays whatever data onto the watch (from the phone). If an app on the watch is dependent on the phone and the phone is disconnected, the app icon on the watch is greyed out, showing it’s unavailable.
Starting up Endomondo or Runtastic on the watch starts it on the phone and can easily be started and stopped on the watch as well as display some of the stats. Endomondo only worked if I manually started it on the phone then the watch. A shame because I prefer it over Runtastic. Runtastic displays duration/distance/calories, Pac/avg pace/duration and Current speed/distance/avg speed on screens you swipe through. The screen dims and goes back to the watch after a timeout. I could not find a way to keep the screen on to allow you to use it for constant tracking. I did find a great app called GPS Watch that will display Speed, distance, and direction. It can even stay on, but beware this can really drain the battery on the watch quickly. You could use it like a bike computer etc. But if you interrupt it you will loose the distance travelled.
Endomondo displayed distance/time, speed, and heart rate again on screens you swipe through. Again I saw no way to keep the app on the screen. Runtastic seemed to be more solid and smoother than Endomondo. I can only hope this improves.
Once initial setup is done you can then choose what else you want to install from the Smart Connect app. Each app, each notification type are separate installs all of which go to the phone, download it from the PlayStore and then load it onto the watch. A little clumsy and time consuming, and clutter up your phone but I like the flexibility of being able to decide what I do and don’t want. And changing phones has become a little more time consuming. Something I do often.
Clock faces out of the box are very basic and there is no weather app by default. There are lots of additional clock faces that can be purchased from the Android PlayStore from the phone. These work a little oddly. Sony have allowed you to create your own custom watch faces to supplement what you get from them. These can be self designed from clocks/widgets available. When you install apps that have custom clock faces they show up as new clocks/widgets that you can use to design your own. I love the flexibility and customization this allows but I have to say it took me a bit of time to figure out what it was doing. And settings for a particular watch face or widget are done in the app on the phone so you have to figure out which app is adding which watch face/widget. A little confusing.
You can have a total of 12 different watch faces defined. All of which can be selectable from the watch or the phone. Out of the box they seem to all be black and white. There are some third party ones that add color but I find it odd that they do not allow more flexibility in designing your own watch faces with color. Every now and then I would find a custom watch face I designed resulted in a blank screen on the watch. I had a couple of times where the only way to resolve it was a reboot of the watch. Odd. Fortunately reboots are pretty quick. Other times I would have a custom watchface completely drop an element in it and I had to go back in and edit it and add the widget or watch face back in.
The screen has a number of power modes. First off when the watch detects absolutely no movement such as sleep it turns the screen completely off. To save power the refresh rate on the screen in dimmed mode is low and the screen is black and white, the watch does not display a second hand. If the watch detects movement of the watch it raises the backlighting on the screen to halfway. And finally if you turn the screen on by pressing the button it’s then on max brightness and max color. Once the screen wakes up there were a few watch faces that included a second hand.
Bluetooth can be turned on and off on the watch itself allowing you to save power, oddly there is no way to set sleep times that would allow you to save power by turning the bluetooth on the watch off while you sleep. I also had difficulty finding a setting on the phone that kept the watch silent while I slept. In the end I opted to turn bluetooth on the phone off using llama at night to insure I never get woken up by the watch. After that happened a couple of times I was not thrilled.
Watch battery status is displayed on the top of some screens, but not the most easily readable or clear just how much of a charge it left. A bizarre oversight. There is a way to add a battery status icon to a custom watch face if you want to. There isn’t even a way from the phone to tell the status of watch. In electric cars they have a phrase called range anxiety. It’s about the paranoia of running out of juice while your driving. With this watch, without knowing the status of the battery you will be tempted to charge this up constantly which would become a nuisance.
The screen in direct sunlight is readable but you can see some of the wires under the touch screen in certain circumstances. With back lighting on you can easily see and read the screen, but this is by no means as bright or vivid as the Samsung Gear 2. A trade off for battery life.
The watch defaults back to the time as it should, a nice design touch.
Additional apps can be loaded from the phone for calendar reminder and numerous notifications, as well as Weather, music control, Walkmate, etc
The Music playback app allowed starting of the music as well as a visual display of the song/album and artist being played. You can also visually swipe to the next song as well as control the volume. It all worked perfectly with my stock Samsung music player. The music app stays on the screen so you can always see what’s playing, also a nice touch.
All of this was loaded from the Smart connect app individually allowing you to pick and choose what you want but taking a bit to get setup.
Walkmate is a pedometer app that runs on the phone and displays on the watch. A nice app that seems reasonably accurate. This app is a typical example where the functionality is being provided by the phone, the sensor is on the phone and the watch simply displays the data.
Speaking of a Pedometer, this is one of the main functions of these fitness tracking bands like FitBit etc. I found three ways on the watch to do a pedometer (all three the watch is nothing but a second display, the functionality is coming from the phone).
1) Walkmate (mentioned above) from Sony mentioned above. There is an app on the phone that shows your progress, allows you to stop and start. It’s ok. It even allows a heart rate monitor but does not display the heart rate anywhere. It only support Ant+ heart rate monitors. It ignored my Bluetooth one.
2) Samsung S.Health which using Remote Widget you can display your current stats
3) Acupedo which has a nice widget that again Remote Widget you can display your current stats
With both Acupedo and Samsung S.Health you can keep the display on making it easy to see how far you’ve gone.
Another popular watch function is heart rate monitor. I found 3 different ways I could display my heart rate on the watch. Again all functionality being provided by the phone:
1/2) Start and Endomondo activity with Bluetooth Smart, Bluetooth Classic or Ant+ heart rate monitor and then either start the Endomondo app on the watch, or use Remote Widget to display your current heart rate. If you use remote widget you can keep it always on the watch
3) Lastly use Google my tracks on the phone and Watch my tracks on your watch connected to an Ant+ heart rate monitor. For some reason bluetooth heart rate monitors do not show properly on the Smartwatch.
Sony has a call handler app as well as a missed call notification app (as well as a contact app) but the reality is given the phone does not have a mic or speaker your pulling your phone out (unless your using a handsfree setup) to take or make a call anyway but none the less these are handy as secondary notifications to help you not miss calls.
I was surprised I couldn’t find a compass app. Apparently at one time it was on the device and seems to have been removed? I would love to have a heart rate monitor app. And maybe even an alarm so if I walked away from my phone it would remind me. And I would love to see the ability to have screen of data you could scroll through rather than limit it to one watchface. One can hope.
There’s even a find my phone app that rings the phone assuming it’s in bluetooth range of the watch. A third party app can be used from the phone to find the watch too.
One of the things that doesn’t seem to work right is you are suppose to be able to double tap to wake the screen. There is a detection of your wrist rotating that it wakes the screen to some in between state, backlight half on if I was to guess. But this seemed a little hard to get reliably to work.
The screen is readable in most situations. Add in the back light and I never found a case where it couldn’t be read. There were lots of complaints about the grainyness of the display. I didn’t find that. It’s certainly not the brightest or crispest but it is a watch after all. I would say for me the screen is good enough. It’s also waterproof so you don’t need to worry about getting caught in the rain. There’s lots of blogs out there that dunked their watch in water, I won’t be rushing to do that as it’s money out of my pocket.
There is no owner info you can add to the watch in the case you should you loose the device.
Overall the watch itself is fairly comfortable. I did notice it got a bit sweaty under the watch and rubber band but nothing too aweful.
On day 1 of heavy use the battery was sitting at 63% meaning just less than 3 days. So I recharged it and did what would be more normal use. It was at to 75% on the start of day two, 54% on day 3 and 26% on day 4 so 3-4 days would seem possible but 4 would really be pushing it. And it first starts to warn of low battery at 15%, then again at 10% and at 5% it powers off. Sony claim 3-4 days so it seems about right. Turn off bluetooth and the battery life according to Sony goes up to 7 days using it as a stand alone watch. It charged from 21% to 100% in just under an hour with both a high current charger and even a lower current BlackBerry charger which I think is terrific.
All in all I have to say I am impressed. Now my expectation level was set quite low to start. I was listening to one reviewer from TWIT and one of the things he said was notifications on a watch are virtually useless. Your unlikely to read an email/text on the watch and even if you did you need the phone to reply so in the end having notifications on the watch do nothing more than add to the amount of time it takes to handle a message and I agree. The one thing I can say though is notifications on the watch are a good secondary notification. But that said, the gmail notification app does not include support for the priority inbox so you are being notified for lots of stuff you likely don’t care about.
Sony have made some terrific progress from the first gen. Couple that with my realistic expectations and I find myself happy with the watch. It does what I wanted it to. Albeit a little expensively, but still. I look forward to seeing more and more apps and watch faces being released for the watch! And I enjoy having customizable watch faces.
In summary here are the list of apps I use on the watch:
Built in apps: stop watch, count down timer, alarm, flashlight, calculator (very occasionally)
Apps I added:
calender Month display, as well as calender smart extension to see your next events
Music control app
Call handling app to see and vibrate on incoming calls
Missed call notification
SMS (text message) notification
Find your phone from your watch, and Find your watch from your phone
Google Maps turn by turn directions on your watch
I found this VERY cool app called Remote widget that can take any widget you can normally display on the phone and display it on the watch. And it supports both always on as well as low power modes. It also supports multiple pages of widgets. Tap the widget on the watch and it starts on the phone. Slide the widget and move to the next widget. Wow. Impressive. Shows what can be done!
I also found Watchit which can take any notification from any app and display it on the watch! It also acts as a message aggregator. With this app you can get around the fact the Sony Google mail app does not support the priority inbox! Be patient it takes a bit of settings on the phone to get this working.
By the way when you do your search for apps that support the Sony Smartwatch in the Google Play Store, be sure and search for SW2 as well as Sony Smart Watch, otherwise you will miss some. And remember some apps are written only for the original Sony Smart Watch MN2.
My S4 came with an app called S.Health. It is an interesting app. The idea of it is that you can enter your weight, food intake, exercise and be able track your health towards whatever your goals are. I haven’t used the food side of it so won’t comment on that, but have played with the fitness tracking side of it and that’s what I will cover off here. Up front I will tell you there is not one of these apps that is all encompassing. One does this better, another does that better etc. It’s kind of frustrating to be honest. I can kind of understand how some people get fed up with it and just go with a Fitbit or the like. I recently reviewed the Garmin VivoFit and was underwhelmed.
From a fitness tracker point of view S.Health has two modes. Walking mate and Excercise mate. If you use a different app there is a way to manually enter workouts from Samsung’s canned workout types, or you can add your own workout types. You simply tell it the number of calories burned per 30 mins and then name your custom workout type. Once you’ve created your own custom workout type you can use it any time to enter workouts done not tracked by S.Health by entering the date/time and length of the workout. It would have been more flexible if it had let you enter directly the length of time of the workout and calories rather than have to futz about but that’s nit picking. Any data entered into this app while backed up to the Samsung cloud are not exportable and there is no portal to view the data off the device. A pretty big gap if you are going to commit the time to using this app. From a social media point of view you can share your progress in many ways but it is only shared as an image. There is no heart rate only mode (GPS off).
Walking mate is a neat app that on it’s own is well done. It is basically a pedometer. And a reasonably accurate one. Even the calorie count seems believable and unlike the Vivofit does not include baseline calories (calories your body consumes just to exist, which in my mind is a way to inflate numbers to make people feel better). It even tries to differentiate between walking, running and doing stairs (not sure what algorithm is used for this given the GPS is off in this mode). Which by the way, since the GPS is off you can run this app all the time in the background. You can set goals for how many steps and when you reach the goal you are informed by a notification and given a badge. There are no settings for reminding you to get up and move during a day or other things that might encourage you to exercise more.
There’s even stats for how you have done in the past. There’s one flaw, they do not allow you to use the heart rate monitor in Walking made mode but do in exercise mode. An odd choice. One thing you will want to do is insure you turn this off (pause it) for other sports like cycling, skiing, snowboarding etc otherwise it will record some random vibrations as steps.
Exercise mate uses the GPS to more accurately track your distance etc. You can choose your sport. It allows you to connect an ANT heart rate monitor. The heart rate is not displayed anywhere so I am not sure what it is doing with it. And the minute you start an exercise mate session the walking mate session is paused. Not a bad choice. The app provides no map of the excercise (like most do).
Here’s a comparison of a similar walk with and without the heart rate monitor. As you can see having the heart rate monitor increased the calorie count which would seem to imply it is using it to calculate calories.
So as a comprehensive all in one app it missed the mark IMHO, but as a pedometer app it’s pretty good! And free on a number of Samsung devices.
I did discover something very interesting doing this post. It seems Android has implemented the ability for more than one app to use the GPS at the same time! That’s excellent I had no idea. This means you can run more than one of these activity tracking apps for the same event! Cool! In a geeky kinda way :)
Activity monitors like the FitBit, Nike Fuel etc are all the rage. Frankly the point of them alludes me so I thought heh, let’s see what I am missing. So I did some digging and this one the Garmin Vivo Fit stood out. Largely because it can also interface with a Ant+ heart rate monitor which I already have. So I bought one to try it out.
So let’s start out with what is it? It is a pedometer (measures how far you’ve walked, your welcome from Captain obvious), a heart monitor and a watch that can display date and time. That’s about it in a nutshell. Yawn. Don’t look for ANY additional functions. No compass, no temperature, no altimeter, not even an alarm, NADA, zippo, bupkiss. Any of these additional features might give a reason to keep this device, but sadly nope.
This particular device can be setup and used with either a phone (iOS or Android) or with a laptop with the included BlueAnt USB stick. Setup was painless and easy. The ability to sync any time any where through your phone is an awesome design. The data goes up to the cloud to Garmin’s fitness web site. The web site is well designed and I already use it with my other Garmin devices. Another reason why this particular device caught my eye.
And thus comes the biggest limitation of this device, the display. They opted for an LCD display with no back lighting to allow maximum battery life. This one instead of needing recharging frequently can last up to a year on disposable coin lithium batteries. The display is readable as long as there is a reasonable amount of light. A dark restaurant, movie theatre, or at night and your SOL. It really is not a good choice. And as with a lot of other devices in this category the display is not turned towards you. It’s readable but odd at best. The Nike Fuel has a much brighter easier to read display but is still turned the wrong way. You can not configure the display for left or right handed mode, it is where it is. On the positive side the display is always on so your not fussing with a second hand to turn the watch on. But if you left it on say calorie count and want the time your back to needing the second hand to change the display. It does not timeout back to a default display, which could be both good and bad.
Ok so the pedometer … it counts your steps. It sets a goal for you to meet. And any day you don’t meet the goal it lowers the bar. Any day you meet the goal it raises the bar. The display shows a red bar any time you have been sitting too long. But don’t look for any kind of sound, or vibrate to get you off your ass. Nope also absent from the device (and in others). So in some ways it motivates you, and in others IMHO it misses the mark. And remember, given most modern phones have accelerometers in them so they can function perfectly well as a pedometer with the use of an app like Samsung’s S.Health or Runtastic’s pedometer.
8112 steps Vs 10386, 6.6km Vs 8.2 and 1467 calories Vs 359. Holy crap. Now I’ve previously compared S.Health to a GPS based app and it was reasonably close so the Garmin seems off. And the calorie count seems ludicrous, well until you do some reading. And what you discover is this device (along with others including the Nike Fuel) include baseline calories. The amount of energy your body would need to simply exist based on some particular formula using the stats you provided, age/weight/height/sex (yes please :) ) etc. So I found this interesting site that allows you to figure out your baseline calorie burn. No idea how accurate it is. But if I used it’s numbers it says I would burn 1484 calories to exist. So even with that tid bit reconciling the calorie count the Garmin comes up with is just magic. Whatever engineering constant they have used (a fudge factor used to multiply the answer you get with your number to get the correct answer, which is of course not a constant, a little engineering school humor sorry) is a mystery. So all in all I am left thinking WTF?
Ok onto heart rate. Surely this will be useful? It paired very well and easily with my existing Ant+ Garmin heart rate monitor. Came up with my instantaneous heart rate as well as zone that I am in at the moment. That’s it. There are no alarms you can set if you are out of your zones. There are no stats (min/max/avg) until the data is uploaded to the portal. Once on the portal you discover that it separates out whatever portion of the day you wore the heart rate monitor into a separate workout. A nice choice. The steps/calories are still in your day count as well. So I would have to say I am disappointed in this function. I do have to wonder what the device would do say cycling, or mountain biking. I have seen some people talk about taking the device off during those type of exercises but that seems to defeat the point.
Also missing is the ability to configure Owner information in case you lost the watch or were found unconscious :(
Physically the device comes with two rubber wrist straps of different lengths. They are comfortable enough to wear, even when sleeping. Could be worn in the shower/swimming as this device is water proof.
I like a number of technocrats have a number of PCs running in the house all the time. One is a media player but power management does not work right so I leave it on. So I was wondering, what is that costing me. So first off I had to go check what I pay for Hydro. So for me Between 11AM-5PM (6 hours a day) it is considered peak and costs 13.5 cents per KWH. Between 7AM and 11AM as well as 5PM to 7PM (6 hours) is considered mid peak and costs 11.2 cents per KWH. Lastly between 7PM and 7AM (12 hours) is considered off peak and costs 7.5 cents per hour.
So I discovered a few colleagues had watt meters. You plug the device you want to monitor into it and it can display the amount of power it draws and thus the cost of having it plugged in.
First off was a Killawatt. It displays lots of instantaneous information like volts, amps, watts, etc. But nothing other than that. While useful without some form of stat or the like you are relegated to staring at the display. And if the device you want to monitor cycles like a fridge etc then this is not a helpful solution.
Next up come the BluePlanet EM100. This device is much more useful. It has the ability to display max watt as well as KWH consumed. It also counts the time. So based on the two you can come up with an average power number. So a much more useful watt monitor. I did find when power consumption was super low the timer sometimes stopped counting.
First off I wanted to make sure the number coming out of this device was accurate so I plugged a 100W incandescent light into it and sure enough it read pretty close to 100W. And the two devices were also very close to each other, giving me that warm fuzzy that it was reasonably accurate.
My set side PC has a 650W supply. So before I had a monitor I guessed maybe it drew 300W which would come out to 71 cents per day, $5 per week, $21.73 a month or $260.83 a year. But what is the real number? Well idling it drew a shockingly low 65 watts. Watching a hidef movie being played back on it popped it up to only 70W. And on suspend the PC drew a minimal 10W. Wow. The PC by the way is a core i5 PC with two hard drives and integrated video. I measured about 6W of additional power adding a second hard drive!
So next up I thought I’d look at my Dell PowerEdge SC430 with 4 drives and an 8 core Xenon processor. Peaking around 286 watts during boot but settling down to around 190 watts average. This device runs 24×7 so this does cost a few bucks to keep running :( I would guess $165 a year.
If you have ever been close to an LCD display you can feel the heat coming off it. So I decided to see how much it drew. My 37″ Dynex LCD display draws about 140W. My 42″ LG Plasma display comes in at 150W peaking around 175W. So it draws more but not as much more as some had told me.
I have an older Gateway P4d PC which always seems to be warm, so I wondered how much it drew. It peaked around 160W and then settled down to 100W. So higher power than my set side PC but not as bad as my server.
As an interesting side note I have a wine fridge about the size of a normal refrigerator. I left the monitor on it for a day and measured .9 KWH consumed. So that would cost about $30 a year to run. Cheap and efficient!
Special thanks to Lance and Johannes for loaning me these!
I’ve done a number of power consumption runs on different devices lately so I thought it might be handy to have them summarized in one place. So here you go. These numbers are all done standby mode. The phone is left alone doing as little as possible for a period of time.
– I had trouble getting a stable number out of the HTC One. This data is syncing only gmail. Facebook, meetup, linked in etc are all off.
– The Q10 was running all the usual accounts (gmail, facebook, meetup linked in etc) as well as one active sync account.
- Loading XBMC onto the Kindle Fire TV
- Heart rate monitor and logger on Android
- RedShoes HR Pro Android app review
- Scosche Rhythm Heart rate monitor
- Amazon Fire TV mini review
- Sony Smartwatch 2 (SW2) review
- Samsung S.Health Android app review
- Garmin Vivofit review
- Cost of keeping a PC running 24×7
- Power consumption comparison summary
- Blackberry Q10 power consumption
- MyGICA ATV 1200